According to most travel forums, Sonamarg is inaccessible during winter due to heavy snowfall and avalanches. However, this being one of those impromptu trips that Masood and I like to take sometimes, we found ourselves in Sonamarg a few days before winter said goodbye.

Srinagar was having this cute snow flurry that we found totally adorable, so how bad could it get at Sonamarg, right?

An hour into our drive from Srinagar to Sonamarg, it began to snow. Nothing heavy; just tiny flecks of cotton falling from the sky.

Minutes later, with the snow getting heavier, we stopped for a quick tea break. The picture on the right is exactly that place. That structure with the red roof is the public restroom I couldn’t use because my highly inappropriate footwear (I wasn’t prepared!) kept slipping on the ice.

The drive to Sonamarg during winter is dangerous but the locals maneuver expertly. There were moments when I felt the tires skidding. There were times when I was certain the car was permanently stuck in the snow. There were instances when I thought I should’ve visited during summer.

But I’m glad we visited during the winter. The place is gorgeous, just like a scene from a fairy tale or the Chronicles of Narnia.

Note to my beloved readers who have just offered prayers of gratitude that spring has arrived and all the snow has finally melted off their part of the world, you may now stop rolling your eyes. I’ve committed every single snowflake to memory to see me through our desert summer months. Thank you.

Where was I? Oh yeah, I was grateful this wasn’t our vehicle:

Kashmiri people do not have red skin. I was fiddling with my camera’s settings to get the snow to come up white in the photographs (instead of blue or gray) and in the process, the beautiful skin of these people turned erythematous.

Sonamarg has a population of just 400; the rest are tourists. Nestled amidst the picturesque Himalayan peaks, it’s one of the most popular places in India to visit during summer.

The view during summer, our driver told us, is breathtaking. Sonamarg is synonymous with quiet meadows and flower-carpeted fields surrounded by pines and lakes.

Just 80 km from Srinagar, Sonamarg has some of the highest mountain ranges of the world. These snow-clad peaks reflects the golden rays of the sun, giving a sparkling effect to the entire valley. This is the reason why this place is named Sonamarg, or “The Meadow of Gold”.

That’s not what we saw, obviously. No golden rays and sparkling effects for us. No quiet meadows and flower-carpeted fields. What we experienced was a town covered in beautiful white snow.

And horses blocking our way.

We sat in the car for a long time waiting for the oncoming traffic to pass us because the snow had turned a two-way lane into a one way, slippery road. Tourism is the main source of livelihood for the majority of locals. Winter is an off-peak season, hence it wasn’t surprising to see grown men simply standing at the roadside at eleven in the morning, just watching the traffic crawl by.

It was my first time to see this much snow, and it was just so fascinating!

The nearest airport to Sonamarg is located at Srinagar, at a distance of 70 kms away. Srinagar is air connected to Delhi with regular flights. Taxis are available from airport to Sonamarg.

Sonamarg is also well-connected to Jammu (60 km) and Srinagar (70 km) by buses.

There are no trains to Sonamarg.

In my opinion, there’s no need to stay overnight at Sonmarg. It’s a small place that can easily be covered in a day.

The best option is to hire a private taxi through your hotel in Srinagar. Having a dedicated driver for the entire duration of our stay in Kashmir saved us a lot of time. Plus, the knowledgeable drivers make very good tourist guides.

There came a point during which the driver informed us we couldn’t go any further by car. We either had to a) ride a horse, or b) walk. I stayed put inside the car. Like I said earlier, we weren’t dressed for this much snow.

Another guy came along—someone who our driver seemed to know very well—and offered us heavy coats and wellies for rent. Masood went ahead and took a coat. I still remained in the car. “Maybe I should just stay here and photograph every single snowflake that’s falling from the sky,” I almost suggested.

Eventually, I put the coat and gloves on (the gloves we had to buy from, and you won’t believe this, the tea stall).  The wellies the guy bought with him were two sizes large for me. Next thing I knew, his lady companion took off hers and gave them to me! She then put on the large ones and casually walked away.

Picture taken whilst riding a horse:

“I don’t want to ride a horse!” I told Masood, very determined to make my point. “I’ll walk.”

I was pretty sure it’s one of those tourist traps where they tell you how it’s impossible to reach Point B without their assistance. That was why I was bent on walking and enjoying the snow at my own pace. We were told that they’d take us someplace where there’s a river or something.

Our driver, however, was eventually able to convince me that since I’d already travelled all the way here, I should go check this place out. And since my expertise lies in sand and not snow, he advised against me walking on my own least I took 2 years to return to our car. Also, the snow was getting heavier so we needed to leave for Srinagar soon. There was the possibility that the only road back to our hotel would be closed down due to bad weather.

I would say it was worth riding the horse because we couldn’t have covered that much distance in 20 minutes and because horse riding is fun no matter what the climate is.

I’ve also learned that a horse can actually slip on ice and lose balance (even if the horse’s owner assures you in the beginning of the ride about how that is such a remote possibility).  It was Masood’s horse, and thank God it caught its balance right away.

The horse ride took us to a gated place that was enveloped in even more snow. There, we were surrounded by locals who wanted us to ride their wooden sledge. It’s more like a wooden plank that they pull through the snow.

We refused the sledge ride. Instead, we walked around a bit. The entire place was white and so breathtaking. The majestic mountains all dressed in white. The proud pine trees dusted with white powder, and every minute or so you hear rustling from one of the branches dropping off the heavy snow that gets accumulated on it. And the flowing river that passes through this scenic place, its water refusing to freeze with its surroundings.

At the end of the trip, the horsemen were so kind to invite us to their home for lunch and tea, but we politely declined.

Our noses turned red and our toes were freezing, but visiting Sonamarg in winter was definitely worth all that (specially if you haven’t seen snow before).

]]> http://nadiamasood.com/a-quick-trip-to-sonamarg-during-the-winter/feed 10 http://nadiamasood.com/a-gloomy-wet-and-cold-srinagar http://nadiamasood.com/a-gloomy-wet-and-cold-srinagar#comments Tue, 02 Apr 2013 10:10:07 +0000 nadia http://nadiamasood.com/?p=8678 Continue reading →]]>

The first thing you’ll notice when you step foot in Kashmir, specially if it’s your first time, is the intimidating presence of armed military men everywhere.  They stand in groups at the airport, on the roadside, or anywhere really, as if their presence is such a normal part of the city.

Once you’re past the uniforms (just try hard to ignore them) you see beautiful people, a laid-back city, fresh vegetables, and snow-peaked mountains.

We’ve come specifically to see the snow. I’ve been reading the weather report ten times a day for the past few days, checking to see when and where it’ll snow. And since Srinagar doesn’t get much snow at this time, we decline the hotel guy’s suggestion to stay here for more than 2 days. We have other places in mind.

This is what we think: if you’re in Srinagar during the winter, you need not stay here for more than 2 days. In fact, one day seems enough for us. Srinagar is a place to enjoy during the summer with its flower exhibitions, blooming  gardens, and bright green trees.

Dal Lake:

It’s drizzling when we arrive in Srinagar. Two in the afternoon seems like six in the evening. Dogs are rolling about in chunks of ice at the roadside. “It snowed last night”, the driver tells us. The wind is fresh but cold. I don’t mind it though. The cold, I mean. That’s what I’ve specifically come here for.

Now this Dal lake is nicknamed the Jewel in the Crown of Kashmir not only for its beauty but also because of its importance as a source of tourism and commercial operations (like fishing and water plant harvesting).

The two most common touristy things to do when you reach Dal Lake are riding a shikara (and the boat guy will even offer you something traditional to wear and take your picture) and spending the night in one of the numerous houseboats parked along the lake.

You don’t stay in houseboats during the winter though. Unless it is your intention to freeze all night. There’s no proper heating system or hot water in the shower. But we’re told it’s a lovely experience during the summer.

I’m impressed by how calm the water is. The surface of Dal Lake is like a clear mirror. It beautifully reflects all the colorful boats, the sky, the trees that line the lake, and even the mountains.

Chasme Shahi:

Translation: the Royal Spring. It’s one of the several gardens in Kashmir built by Mughal emperors. Albeit the smallest of all Mughal gardens in Kashmir, this one’s famous because of it’s spring. Riaz, our driver and guide, reminds us to have a drink. “It has medicinal properties,” he says as we alight the car. “Fill up your water bottles!”

It’s winter. The trees are bare and the gardens devoid of flowers. We get distracted by the majestic snow-capped mountains behind the garden.

Masood eyes the water suspiciously at first. He then proceeds to fill our water bottle and brings it up to eye level to examine closely. We didn’t drink the water at first, specially since we couldn’t see its source.

Back at the hotel later that night when we ran out of drinking water, we drank the one we filled at the Chasme Shahi. And guess what, it just tastes like your regular water.

It’s just a small garden, really. Nothing exciting to write about.

Nishat Bagh:

Translation: Garden of Delight.

Another garden built by the Mughal emperor, except that this one has twelve terraces with cascading waterfalls! Some renovation work is going on at the moment, but I’m sure this place looks breathtaking in summer with all the colorful flowers and bright green trees!

Like the other royal gardens, this too faces the Dal Lake.

But the restrooms are awful. It’s old, dark, wet, and scary.

Hazratbal Shrine:

When Riaz pulls up the vehicle in front of this structure, we think it’s just one of the masjids  in Srinagar. But he tells us that this place is special because they believe it contains a relic: strands of hair of the prophet Mohammed, sallalhu alaihi wassalam.

How the hair got there is a long story.  Turns out it’s just like any other masjid, a place to pray.

Masood enters through the front door, while I am asked to enter from the door located at the back of the masjid. I look up ahead and see a vast, open terrace. Just as I begin to walk towards it, a guy tells me to remove my shoes.

With shoes in my hand, I sprint across the wet and very cold floor, trying to reach the ladies’ entrance as fast as I could. Still, my socks get drenched and my frozen feet begin to feel numb.

To my great display, there’s nothing to see inside. As I peek inside the room, I see a couple of ladies praying. There’s a book shelf at one side. And that’s basically it. No relic.

Dashing back to the main gate, disappointed and cold, I come across a couple of middle-aged women from Mumbai.

“So what’s it like?” asks the taller one, her bare feet turning blue on the cold floor.

“Um, there’s nothing to see, actually,” I reply.

“What do you mean? Is the hair not there?” she asks again. “What did you see?”

“Well, it’s just a prayer room for the ladies, that’s all,” I try to quickly end the conversation so I can run back to the gate and wear my shoes again. I can’t feel my toes at this point.

Turns out Masood didn’t see anything as well. We’re somehow skeptical about the legend surrounding this relic so have wanted to see it with our own eyes. Maybe there are strands of hair somewhere inside that masjid that may or may not belong to the person they claim it belongs to, but we don’t see it.

It’s a beautiful masjid nevertheless and worth visiting when you’re in the city. Maybe when it’s not too cold.

We cover all these places in six hours (time spent in traffic included). Later, we have a heavy Kashmiri meal that keeps us full until lunch the next day.

Visiting Kashmir and then leaving without having sampled their famous wazwan is an unforgivable crime. Masood insisted that his first meal in Srinagar has to be wazwan so our driver takes us to Mughal Darbar.

This visit to Kashmir is pretty spontaneous with no planning or research whatsoever, except for that Google search I did once about the weather and the Gondola rides to check the ticket prices. As a result, we hand our clueless selves over to Riaz, our driver and guide, who takes us to Mughal Darbar just a few hours after stepping foot in Srinagar.

“Go upstairs to the first floor,” Riaz casually says as Masood and I step out of his car. But since Riaz doesn’t elaborate on why we should go to the first floor, we enter the restaurant at the ground floor as soon as the friendly guy standing at the doors usher us in with the most warm and welcoming smile.

Today, as I write this post and do a quick Google search on the restaurant, I realize why he was telling us to go upstairs. And since I’m committed to writing honest reviews, I will show you this picture:

Mughal Darbar building in Srinagar, Kashmir. Picture courtesy of hotel’s website.

We have dined in an unauthorized restaurant, you guys! Why this supposedly unauthorized restaurant is still running a very thriving business just below the authorized Mughal Darbar restaurant is beyond me.

But let me tell you something very honestly: the food we had at the ground floor restaurant is very good. That’s our personal opinion. And since that is where we ate, I am going to write my review about it. Then it’s totally up to you to decide – whether you chose to eat downstairs or upstairs.

There’s nothing fancy about Mughal Darbar restaurant, but it’s clean and the staff is friendly. We arrive around three in the afternoon and find the place packed – the majority of their diners appear to be Kashmiris.

The chandelier emits a very orangey light that makes food photography a headache (plus the people are eyeing me suspiciously since no one else is taking pictures of their food or their surroundings). A thick plastic is spread over the table cloth to protect it from stains. Cheap plastic flowers are placed in the corner.

The bright and colorful artwork on the wall is interesting. It appears to show some  people in fancy dresses all queued up, offering food and presents to a Mughal Emperor.

Once we are shown to our table, a rectangular box of lit charcoal briquettes is promptly placed just below our table to keep our feet warm.

Kashmiri Wazwan:

Wazwan is not just a multi-course meal; it is both tradition and art for the Kasmiri people. It is regarded by the Kashmiri Muslims as a core element of their culture and identity.

This is most commonly prepared during weddings and festivals. Guests are grouped into fours for the serving of the wazwan. The meal begins with a ritual washing of hands, as a jug and basin called the tash-t-nari are passed among the guests.

The traditional number of courses for the wazwan is thirty-six! Thankfully, restaurants do not serve all the courses (unless, perhaps, you ask them to); this prevents food from being wasted.

After placing our order, the waiter assigned to our table suggests we take only half serving. A full serving, he tells us, is good for 4-5 people.

First, he brings a plate of fresh vegetable salad to our table. I’ve never tasted such tender and sweet carrots and radish before. Within a few minutes he bring this dish out:

Seekh kababs, tabak maaz (ribs of lamb simmered in yoghurt till tender, then grilled), safaid kokur (white chicken), zafrani kokur (masala chicken) – all these resting on a bed of aromatic rice. We don’t know how or where to begin eating!

All the meat are succulent and flavorful. Just as the first morsel hit our tastebuds, the waiter reappears to tell us he hasn’t served the main curries yet!

Goshtaba – called by Kashmiri Muslims as ‘The King of Dishes’ or ‘Dish of Kings’. Mutton meatballs are fried and cooked in yogurt and ginger curry.

Rista – which are meatballs in fiery red gravy.

Rogan josh – a staple of Kashmiri cuisine originally brought by the Mughals. Its characteristic brilliant red color traditionally comes from liberal amounts of dried Kashmiri chiles that have been de-seeded to reduce their heat.

Fruit trifle with whipped cream and chocolate shavings. Not too sweet and surprising very delicious.

Kashmir’s version of Dal Fry. There’s a little amount of gravy and a dollop of butter. We have this with cumin rice. A little bit salty but otherwise it’s a good break from all the meat-based dishes.

Coriander and green chili chutney. It is served with grilled meat.

Chicken tikka – well marinated and very delicious. Served with lemon wedges; cucumber, carrots and radish sticks; cashew nuts; and shredded cabbage.

Overall Impression:

Price isn’t cheap. The half Wazwan course costs ₹ 1,300 (including 2 cups of tea).

Would we dine in this place had we known it’s trying to imitate the real Mughal Darbar restaurant’s name and taking advantage of its fame? Probably not. Nevertheless, this restaurant is running a successful business. Besides, I’m sure the authorities would have shut this place down had it been operating illegally.

The fact remains that we have dined in this restaurant, not once but twice. We find their service good. The staff is attentive and quick. Most importantly, we thoroughly enjoy the food.

Now you know there are two Mughal Darbar restaurants in the same building. Which restaurant you must go to for your wazwan experience is totally up to you.

Moral of the story: If you haven’t done your research, pay attention to what your local guide is telling you.

A dark misty breath hovers over the city of Agra on a very cold February morning. People clad in sweaters and jackets come out of their homes, look up at a pale sun, and go about their business. The guy standing at the corner of the street rubs his hands vigorously, warming them.

The picture above is taken from the fourth floor of the hotel—a covered roof-top restaurant—at six in the morning, just before we have our breakfast. We are told that the Taj Mahal can be seen from here on a clear day.

Early morning is undoubtedly the best time to visit the Taj Mahal—it’s the coolest time of the day and there isn’t much crowd so that there is no frustrating queue at the security or when entering the building, and one can take pictures peacefully (and without having a dozen strangers in the background).

The Taj Mahal was a mere three-minute walk from our hotel the first time we visited Agra, almost five years ago. This time the hotel is a ten-minute drive away so that our driver picks us up and drops us off at the parking area, a couple of kilometers away from the Taj Mahal’s gate.

Just next to the parking space is a building where visitors can purchase tickets. They also provide lockers for items not allowed inside the Taj Mahal premises, like video cameras, books, knives, food items, crayons, toffees, and flashlights, among other things.

Outside the ticket building stand a group of cycle rickshaw wallas and horse carriage wallas, offering visitors a ride to the gate. A round-trip costs 200 rupees. “It’s a very reasonable price!” they insist.

“No thanks,” we tell them, “We’ll take that battery-operated vehicle instead.”

“But that won’t leave until it’s full. We’ll take you there now!” they insist.

A few minutes later, as we ponder on the 200 rupees fare of the rickshaw, the guy who operates the vehicle comes up and tells us to climb in. There are just three passengers but off we go, at 10 rupees each!

The battery-operated vehicle drops us off a few meters away from the main gate. The blanket of fog gets thicker by the minute so that we can’t even see the gate as we begin walking towards it.

It’s strange walking towards something you can’t see – it’s like walking in a horror movie, except it’s not scary. It’s also like walking through clouds.

Outside the gate the security guy asks for ID after looking at our tickets. Next, a quick pat-down is done, the lady guard complaining how the weather is so cold this morning. Finally, my bag goes through a scanner.

There’s a wheelchair facility at the Taj Mahal complex. Upon entering the second gate, there’s a little space with a wall lined with lockers. Video cameras aren’t allowed past this gate so that visitors need to leave those here.

There’s a very quiet fellow who’ll keep your ID, have you sign a log book, and store your video equipment in the locker.

Almost the same procedure applies when borrowing a wheelchair: give your ID and sign up in the log book. You’ll then be told to go get a wheelchair from the adjacent room yourself.

See that picture above? That’s the gate where one gets the very first glimpse of the Taj Mahal. For first timers, this is the gate where they hold their breathe for that first view.

Today, there is nothing to see except white haze.

“But where is the Taj Mahal?!” I hear a frustrated young boy ask his father.

As we walk past the garden and fountains towards the Taj Mahal, I hear a guide tell a young married couple, “These symbolizes the four flowing rivers of Jannah, the Paradise…”

That’s when I see a white bird and immediately stop to change lenses. I am still within earshot of the guide so I hear him clearly.

“Over there, that red sandstone building,” he says, pointing to his left, ”that’s a masjid. Prayers are still being offered there five times a day.”

The couple struggles to see the red building, squinting their eyes. All they see is a white veil of mist.

“And on the other side,” the guide continues, pointing to his right, “is an identical sandstone building that served no other purpose except to balance the architecture, to create a mirror image.”

The couple struggles again to find the building. I’m sure they have realized at this point how they’ve wasted money over a guide.

Seeing the Taj Mahal for the second time today doesn’t exactly take my breath away like how it did few years ago, and that is expected, but the beautiful architecture and the massive size of the structure still amazes me.

Just like the first time I still run my fingers along the wall, feeling each design, curve, and crevice. When I do that, the people around me—and thankfully there is just a handful of tourists—melt away and all I hear is soft whispers of the past.

I imagine Emperor Shah Jahan’s heartbreak when his own son—the rebellious and puritanical Aurangzeb—chastised and imprisoned him for throwing away so much money on a mausoleum.

He remained a prisoner in the huge Agra Fort for eight years, watching the white silhouette of the Taj Mahal from a small window of his rooms, seeking solace from the poignant beauty of the mausoleum he had built for his favorite wife.

In the photograph above, photographers and guides are losing clients because of the persistent thick fog.

Thing is, the emperor didn’t just build the Taj Mahal during his time. Shah Jahan is reputed as an aesthete par excellence. His contribution includes the black marble pavilion at the Shalimar Gardens in Srinagar and a white marble palace in Ajmer. He built a tomb for his father, Jahangir, in Lahore and the massive Red Fort in Delhi. He also built the Jama Masjid, India’s largest masjid to date.

Obviously, his imagination surpassed all Mughal glory with his most famous project: the Taj Mahal.

We have a train to catch in New Delhi and need to be on our way in an hour. The visit feels hurried, and unlike the first time, I do not have the luxury of time to sit on one of the benches in the garden to admire and soak in the surroundings.

Besides, Masood’s mom is with us. She is the main reason why we’re visiting the Taj Mahal. It’s her first time and all, but we all know how moms make a fuss of the time. Tell them once that the train leaves at ten in the morning and they’ll start getting restless by seven.

The Taj is more a vision
Of beauty than a firm reality -
A dream in palpable and solid marble -

A thought, a sentiment of tenderness,
A sigh of an engrossing mortal love,
Caught and imbued with such eternity
As the foundations of the earth can give!

Anonymous, from “Taj Mahal, A poem” (1889) by Frank Cowan.

Photo: India TV News

“Ladies and gentlemen, this is your captain speaking. There’s heavy fog in New Delhi with visibility reduced to 100 meters so we’re going to delay our flight by thirty minutes or until the weather in New Delhi clears up a bit.”

Fortunately, it’s just a thirty-minute wait and not a minute longer. Thing is, sitting here in the plane and looking out the oval window as we leave the golden sands of the desert behind, I’m having a hard time imagining how Delhi might be like covered in fog. I mean, we’d always visit during the summer. How do I describe Delhi’s summer? It’s like sitting inside a tandoori oven. The hot wind that blows in from Rajasthan swirls around Delhi, hitting your face menacingly, flushing your skin and drying your eyes.

This year we decide to see how Delhi’s like during the winter. Turns out, we pick the foggiest day of the year to fly.

The early morning fog disrupts operations at the Indira Gandhi International airport, where more than 80 flights were delayed, including ours. Minimum morning temperature is 7.6 degrees Celsius. By 8.30 a.m., visibility is reduced to 100 metres.

By the time we land, just a little past noon, the fog clears up considerably. I am delighted to feel the cold breeze against my skin. Everyone in the city is either wearing a sweater or a jacket.

The entire city is again covered in thick fog by six in the evening. The city looks dark and ghostly. We’re out to show the famous Jama Masjid to Masood’s mom, but we can’t see the huge structure up until we are standing right in front of it!

Masood’s mom has been here a long time ago, with her husband, and has so many fond memories. I see the happy-sad look on her face as she looks up the concrete stairs and remembers her late husband.

Later, we have Chicken Jahangiri and Tandoori Fish at Karim’s. We drink tea from a tiny shop that sells only tea and shahi tukrey, warm bread pudding cooked in pure ghee and garnished with slivers of almonds and pistachios. A teaspoon of this dessert is enough to give you hyperglycemia for a week!

We giggle with childish glee upon discovering the condensed vapor coming from our mouths as we speak or exhale. I restrain myself upon noticing a man in military uniform look at us, least he thinks we’ve come from the desert to experience the first winter of our lives.

The roadside is busy with hawkers selling grilled corn on the cob, roasted peanuts, warm milk tea, pink and fluffy cotton candy, and dried fruits.

I promptly tell Masood how much I’m enjoying the cold weather in Delhi, about how I’m falling in love with the city and its fog, and that I have made up my mind about buying a property and moving permanently in this city.

He agrees a little too quickly and unenthusiastically. I eye him suspiciously. He says he knows I’ll change my mind in two months.

You’ll see more fog-laden pictures in the next two posts. I’m bringing you more of New Delhi and Agra. Stay tuned!

]]> http://nadiamasood.com/a-cold-and-foggy-new-delhi/feed 14 http://nadiamasood.com/live-from-delhi-the-india-gate-canopy http://nadiamasood.com/live-from-delhi-the-india-gate-canopy#comments Fri, 01 Feb 2013 18:36:43 +0000 nadia http://nadiamasood.com/?p=8548 Continue reading →]]>

Just a few meters away from The India Gate, there’s this beautiful canopy with a roof of red sandstone. The canopy was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens and was built in 1936. At that time, the marble statue of Sir George V stood under the canopy.

The statue has been removed from beneath the canopy to the Coronation Memorial Park in North Delhi. The emptiness of the canopy is symbolic of the British retreat from India.

We arrive this afternoon, after our flight from Sharjah was delayed for more than 30 minutes because of very low visibility at the Indira Gandhi International Airport.

It’s still very foggy out here, and the temperature is a lovely 14ºC. The wind is cold. People here are wearing all sorts of winter clothes: jackets, sweaters, wool caps, scarves, gloves, etc. We, the desert dwellers, on the other hand, are having fun chilling our nose and fingertips.

It’s midnight. I hear a group of men outside the hotel singing happy birthday in the loudest, most out-of-tune manner.

Good night, everyone!

Having borrowed Sophia’s 70-300 mm lens recently, I venture out to the great outdoors (read: the open area behind my office building) for some bird watching and photography.

Taking picture of birds is quite challenging. They sit prettily, looking all posed for a beautiful picture. They remain in that ideal pose and wait for you to play with the lens until you get that perfect focus.

And in that fraction of a second when you’re just about to hit the shutter release button, they conveniently fly away.

Here are a few pictures I took today. These are the birds I see on a daily basis, specially during these cooler months. Information about the birds is mainly taken from Wikipedia.

The House Sparrow:

This is probably the most commonly sighted bird here in the U.A.E.

The House Sparrow originated in the Middle East and spread—along with agriculture—to parts of North Africa then later to the rest of the world, through natural and ship-borne dispersal.

The House Sparrow is strongly associated with human habitations and can live in urban or rural settings. It feeds mostly on the seeds of grains and weeds, but I’ve seen them eat french fries and pizza as well.

Interesting fact: Described by Carl Linnaeus in 1758, the House Sparrow was among the first animals to be given a scientific name in the modern system of biological classification.

The Red Vented Bulbul:

Mainly the residents of India, these birds have found their way to the U.A.E., and you can frequently spot them during the cooler months.

The Red-vented Bulbul is easily identified by its short crest giving the head a squarish appearance. The body is dark brown with a scaly pattern while the head is black. The rump is white while the vent is red. The black tail is tipped in white.

Red-vented bulbuls feed on fruits, petals of flowers, nectar, and insects.

Interesting fact: These birds are considered as pests because of their habit of damaging fruit crops.

The Common Myna:

The Myna is an open woodland bird with a strong territorial instinct, and has adapted extremely well to urban environments.

The Common Myna uses the nests of woodpeckers, parakeets, etc. and has been known to evict the chicks of previously nesting pairs by holding them in the beak. This aggressive behavior is considered to contribute to its success as an invasive species.

Interesting fact: The Common Myna widely appears under the name saarika in Indian culture from Vedic times, featuring both in classical Indian literature (Sanskrit) as well as in Buddhist texts.

The Laughing Dove:

The Laughing Dove is a small (but very pretty!) pigeon that is a resident breeder in Sub-Saharan Africa, the Middle East east, and the Indian Subcontinent.

The species is usually seen in pairs or small parties and only rarely in larger groups. Larger groups are formed especially when drinking at waterholes in arid regions.

Interesting fact: This particular Laughing Dove is observed to what seems like looking after its sick companion. They were sitting near a water basin and wouldn’t leave each other.  Here’s a picture of them together:

The White-eared Bulbul:

These birds are found in Kuwait, Bahrain, Iraq, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, north-western India, and on the Arabian peninsula.

In the U.A.E., you’ll find parties of these birds in every little oasis of greenery, as they pick away at insects and grains.

Couldn’t find any interesting facts about them, sorry.

The Hoopoe:

My favorite from this post! The Hoopoe is a very beautiful bird that is widespread in Europe, Asia, North Africa, Sub-Saharan Africa and Madagascar. It is notable for its distinctive ‘crown’ of feathers.

The Hoopoe is monogamous, although this means that the bond merely lasts for a single season. They are also territorial, with the male calling frequently to advertise his ownership of the territory. Birds will try to stab rivals with their bills, and individuals are occasionally blinded in fights.

Interesting fact:

Hoopoes appear in the Quran in Surah Al-Naml 27:20–22 in the following context:

“And he (Solomon) sought attendance among the birds and said: How is it that I see not the hoopoe, or is he among the absent? I will surely punish him with a severe punishment or slaughter him unless he brings me clear authorization. But the hoopoe stayed not long and said, “I have encompassed [in knowledge] that which you have not encompassed, and I have come to you from Sheba with certain news.”

What types of birds do you commonly see in your area?

Getting out of the house at 9:30 in the morning and driving more than 10 kilometers to the mall in order to have breakfast isn’t my normal routine. In fact, this is a first. Normal for me means getting out of bed at 9:30 am.

Today is special, however, because I am having breakfast with a blogger friend whom I’ve known for almost four years now! She’s in town with her adorable (mashaAllah!) twins, and I’m having such a nice time with them. I’d wake up at 4 am if I had to!

Maybe not. But I can make it at 8 am.

Carluccio’s is an acclaimed Italian café chain that serves breakfast all day, opening at 9 am each morning.

The place is empty when we arrive at 10:30 am. I lost my way to the mall despite following the GPS, and we ended up at the airport tunnel instead, but that’s not what this post is about so I’m sparing you the details.

A menu card is handed to us and, considering how hungry we are, order the heaviest breakfast item on the list that comes with coffee or tea and a glass of juice.

I ask for my coffee to be served later after the meal, but the lovely waitress decides to serve it first. Oh well.

I haven’t been a serious coffee drinker until a few months or so ago which means I can’t really differentiate between Caribou, Costa, Starbucks, and Tim Horton’s. But my friend assures me that Timmies serve the best coffee.

What I do know is that Carluccio’s coffee turns out too bitter for my taste. There’s this strong aftertaste, and this is after adding a good amount of cream in it.

Green apple juice and pomegranate juice. Mine is the green apple one, which tastes fresh with just the right amount of sweetness. It makes me forget about the coffee.

And now, the main breakfast:

Colazione Magnifica.

Free range egg omelette with grilled turkey bacon (instead of Pancetta), sautéed mushrooms, grilled tomato and toasted ciabatta. You can’t really see the ciabatta because it’s tucked underneath the eggs and mushroom.

The omelette is cooked just the way I like it! The seasoning is just right and the texture smooth. The grilled tomato goes really well with the mushrooms and turkey.

While the serving size is just right for me, it may not be enough for others. I’m saying this because we still have room for Tiramisu afterwards!

AED 49

Carluccio’s know how to make their Tiramisu. I don’t remember the price but what you get is the real deal: Savoiardi biscuits soaked in strong espresso coffee with mascarpone and chocolate. The serving size is good enough for three people!

Did you know that tirami sù means pick me up which metaphorically means make me happy? Such a beautiful and apt name for this gorgeous dessert!

I’m sure it’s the caffeine from the espresso and chocolate that’s responsible for the pick me up effect.

Soft and moist, melt-in-your-mouth good. That’s how the tiramisu is. Not too sweet, not too bitter. We couldn’t finish it so I took the rest for Masood. He probably just had a teaspoon for himself while I devour the rest. He’s sweet and caring that way.

Overall, my friend and I have a nice and peaceful breakfast. We take our sweet time eating and chatting. We both enjoy the food. The staff is attentive yet not intrusive.

There’s a cute little shop at one end of the restaurant where you can buy oil and vinegar, sauces, pasta, chocolates and biscuits, coffee, and Antonio Carluccio’s cookbooks.

Carluccio’s
1st Floor, Mirdif City Centre, Emirates Shaikh Mohammed bin Zyed Road
+97142843728

Minimalist décor, simple yet comfortable chairs, just the right amount of cheerful sunlight peering in through the blinds, bright and fresh colors, and attentive staff—these are my first impressions on Flavours on Two, an all-day dining venue presenting a choice of international cuisine serving a la carte or buffet style.

The complimentary valet parking makes life so much easier when you arrive at the hotel. We’ve come for lunch on a weekday, and the restaurant has a decent number of customers, but not crowded. The hotel is located in the middle of offices and business centers, so I assume the restaurant is never empty. It’s always a good idea to book yourself a table beforehand.

The walls are adorned with abstract paintings of bright, bold colors. There are fresh orchids on the table. But what I am most fascinated about is this:

 The Food:

The salad bar is the most impressive of the entire buffet spread. Soup of the day is potato and leek, which tastes really nice and creamy. The potato salad is also really good.

This is my first time to try dolma—stuffed grape leaves—and I’m afraid it isn’t love at first bite. I might like it someday. For now, I’m happy with my pasta with cherry tomatoes and olives.

There are a few different types of cheese and bread. There is a good selection of sauces and dips.

There isn’t much variety as far as the main dishes are concerned. There are about five or six, to be exact.

Pictured above: that’s grilled chicken with cranberry sauce on the left (I add the cranberry sauce myself after finding the chicken rather bland for my taste). On the right is chicken a la king.

 Beef stroganoff.

Chili Fish, roasted potatoes on the side.

The dessert section is a joy to look at! Everything is so pretty and dainty. They have both dark and white chocolates, mango mousse, pineapple upside down cake (but Masood clearly believes I make a better version), date cake, and some other pastries.

My favorites would be the caramel, tiramisu, and fresh fruits:

 Overall Impression:

The ambiance is really nice for a casual lunch with friends or business associates. Service is good; you’ll never find your water glass empty, and your used plates are taken away promptly. There’s complimentary coffee too.

Food is good but for AED 130 per person for the lunch buffet there should have been more options as far as the main dishes are concerned. I always go for the seafood first so it is a little disappointing to see only one option.

All the previous themes were tweaked and personalized by me but since I don’t know much about codes, things didn’t sail smoothly all the time. This blog—which is turning three next month, has made a lot of friends, and has earned some money on the side—now deserves a tailored suit, so to speak.

After having played around with whites, blacks and browns, I’m returning to my first love: purple. Remember The Purple Journal? Maybe some of you still do.

This design is created by Tasha of My Cute Lobster Designs. If you’re looking around for a new blog design or a nice banner for your blog or website, email her. She’s a delight to work with.

The Entertainer Travel 2013 Giveaway!

And now, as a way to say thank you for reading this blog, for all the valuable comments and feedback, for subscribing to the posts, and for many of my regular readers who are now not only my online friends but offline as well, I’m giving away a copy of this year’s brand new The Entertainer Travel Book.

One of you will win this book that contains over 500 Free Night Hotel Vouchers inside. Every time you travel, simply book one night and you will receive one night free! And for additional nights of your hotel stay, get 20% off including breakfast for two!

The book contains vouchers for hotels in the Middle East (U.A.E., Saudi Arabia, Oman, Qatar), Africa (Egypt, Kenya, South Africa), Europe (Spain and UK), and Asia (India, Thailand, Maldives, Mauritius, and more!).

Imagine yourself paying for just one night at a 4 or 5-star hotel or resort and getting the next night free!

How to Enter the Giveaway:

1. Enter by leaving a comment below telling me what type of posts you would like to see published more of on this blog this year. Please leave a valid e-mail address. This step is mandatory to qualify for the giveaway.
2. A limit of one entry is allowed per e-mail address. You may not enter more than once, whether or not you use a different e-mail address. You may, however, obtain additional entries by liking the blog’s Facebook page or mentioning about the giveaway on Twitter.

The Rules:

1. This blog giveaway is open to readers worldwide, aged 18 and above.
2. There is absolutely NO PURCHASE necessary in order to enter the giveaway.
3. Competition stats on January 09 and ends on January 17, 2013 at midnight EST.
4. A winning number will be generated using Random.org on January 18, 2013.
5. Winner will be notified via e-mail and on the blog. Should the winner not respond within 3 days, I will select another winner via Random.org.

Good luck!

a Rafflecopter giveaway