kashmiri wazwan

Mughal Darbar Restaurant: Go to the First Floor!

Winter in Srinagar

Visiting Kashmir and then leaving without having sampled their famous wazwan is an unforgivable crime. Masood insisted that his first meal in Srinagar has to be wazwan so our driver takes us to Mughal Darbar.

This visit to Kashmir is pretty spontaneous with no planning or research whatsoever, except for that Google search I did once about the weather and the Gondola rides to check the ticket prices. As a result, we hand our clueless selves over to Riaz, our driver and guide, who takes us to Mughal Darbar just a few hours after stepping foot in Srinagar.

“Go upstairs to the first floor,” Riaz casually says as Masood and I step out of his car. But since Riaz doesn’t elaborate on why we should go to the first floor, we enter the restaurant at the ground floor as soon as the friendly guy standing at the doors usher us in with the most warm and welcoming smile.

Today, as I write this post and do a quick Google search on the restaurant, I realize why he was telling us to go upstairs. And since I’m committed to writing honest reviews, I will show you this picture:

Mughal Darbar building in Srinagar, Kashmir. Picture courtesy of hotel’s website.

We have dined in an unauthorized restaurant, you guys! Why this supposedly unauthorized restaurant is still running a very thriving business just below the authorized Mughal Darbar restaurant is beyond me.

But let me tell you something very honestly: the food we had at the ground floor restaurant is very good. That’s our personal opinion. And since that is where we ate, I am going to write my review about it. Then it’s totally up to you to decide – whether you chose to eat downstairs or upstairs.

mughal darbar restaurant

There’s nothing fancy about Mughal Darbar restaurant, but it’s clean and the staff is friendly. We arrive around three in the afternoon and find the place packed – the majority of their diners appear to be Kashmiris.

The chandelier emits a very orangey light that makes food photography a headache (plus the people are eyeing me suspiciously since no one else is taking pictures of their food or their surroundings). A thick plastic is spread over the table cloth to protect it from stains. Cheap plastic flowers are placed in the corner.

The bright and colorful artwork on the wall is interesting. It appears to show some  people in fancy dresses all queued up, offering food and presents to a Mughal Emperor.

Once we are shown to our table, a rectangular box of lit charcoal briquettes is promptly placed just below our table to keep our feet warm.

non-veg restaurant in srinagar

Kashmiri Wazwan:

Wazwan is not just a multi-course meal; it is both tradition and art for the Kasmiri people. It is regarded by the Kashmiri Muslims as a core element of their culture and identity.

This is most commonly prepared during weddings and festivals. Guests are grouped into fours for the serving of the wazwan. The meal begins with a ritual washing of hands, as a jug and basin called the tash-t-nari are passed among the guests.

The traditional number of courses for the wazwan is thirty-six! Thankfully, restaurants do not serve all the courses (unless, perhaps, you ask them to); this prevents food from being wasted.

After placing our order, the waiter assigned to our table suggests we take only half serving. A full serving, he tells us, is good for 4-5 people.

First, he brings a plate of fresh vegetable salad to our table. I’ve never tasted such tender and sweet carrots and radish before. Within a few minutes he bring this dish out:

kashmiri wazwan

Seekh kababs, tabak maaz (ribs of lamb simmered in yoghurt till tender, then grilled), safaid kokur (white chicken), zafrani kokur (masala chicken) – all these resting on a bed of aromatic rice. We don’t know how or where to begin eating!

All the meat are succulent and flavorful. Just as the first morsel hit our tastebuds, the waiter reappears to tell us he hasn’t served the main curries yet!

Goshtaba
Goshtaba – called by Kashmiri Muslims as ‘The King of Dishes’ or ‘Dish of Kings’. Mutton meatballs are fried and cooked in yogurt and ginger curry.
rista
Rista – which are meatballs in fiery red gravy.
rogan josh
Rogan josh – a staple of Kashmiri cuisine originally brought by the Mughals. Its characteristic brilliant red color traditionally comes from liberal amounts of dried Kashmiri chiles that have been de-seeded to reduce their heat.
fruit trifle
Fruit trifle with whipped cream and chocolate shavings. Not too sweet and surprising very delicious.
dal fry
Kashmir’s version of Dal Fry. There’s a little amount of gravy and a dollop of butter. We have this with cumin rice. A little bit salty but otherwise it’s a good break from all the meat-based dishes.
green chutney
Coriander and green chili chutney. It is served with grilled meat.
chicken tikka
Chicken tikka – well marinated and very delicious. Served with lemon wedges; cucumber, carrots and radish sticks; cashew nuts; and shredded cabbage.

Overall Impression:

srinagar town

Price isn’t cheap. The half Wazwan course costs ₹ 1,300 (including 2 cups of tea).

Would we dine in this place had we known it’s trying to imitate the real Mughal Darbar restaurant’s name and taking advantage of its fame? Probably not. Nevertheless, this restaurant is running a successful business. Besides, I’m sure the authorities would have shut this place down had it been operating illegally.

The fact remains that we have dined in this restaurant, not once but twice. We find their service good. The staff is attentive and quick. Most importantly, we thoroughly enjoy the food.

Now you know there are two Mughal Darbar restaurants in the same building. Which restaurant you must go to for your wazwan experience is totally up to you.

Moral of the story: If you haven’t done your research, pay attention to what your local guide is telling you.

11 comments

  1. hello, Nadia… the place looks interesting, has a character. btw, that was a load of food, am afraid. you two finished them all? hehe. two restaurants with the same name in the same building, sounds like it’s from an action movie, lol. oh, you seemed to have enjoyed it, that’s what’s important. regards, dear. 🙂
    35andupcynicismonhold recently posted..After all

    1. Hi there, ‘San! This place certainly has a character. We went to this place twice. First time, we ordered the wazwan but couldn’t finish the meatballs. There was just too much meat. The second time, we polished everything off easily. We take our time when dining out 🙂

      Yep, we did enjoy ourselves and the food was good.

      1. ahaha, i know. you seem to be the kind who takes times eating and enjoying the food and the conversation (kaya nagwo-worry ako pag nagkita tayo, you’d know na slob lang akong kumain, hihi). at talagang inulit, nag-dine uli ro’n, masarap nga siguro… 😉

        hey, i particularly like the last pic – swell rendition, great angle. the first one looks interesting, too – like from a painting? 🙂

        hey, when’s the next post, huh? hope things are well, dear. 🙂
        35andupcynicismonhold recently posted..Of Lemons and Lessons

        1. When you’re with me, you’ll learn how to slow down and enjoy as if there’s nothing else in the world to do 😀

          Yung unang litrato, it’s taken from my hotel window. It began snowing the next morning.

          Next post is way overdue, I know. But I’ll post soon, pramis 😀

  2. Kashmir has always been “the” place I wanted to visit but somehow has not been possible until now. However, I am so glad I got at least a glimpse of a part of what I would experience, if I ever went in sha Allah, through your blogpost:) I am glad you went. May Allah take you to more amazing places!

    1. Ameen to you dua, Familycook! May you visit Kashmir soon too! I heard it’s absolutely lovely during the summer, however my aim was to see it during the winter so we went.

      What happened to your blog?

  3. Hi Nadia !

    … so u were in Kashmir – awesome !!

    Weird to know (n see) two restaurants of same name n at same place …. but u enjoyed ur food – and that’s what matters …. btw did u visit the original Mughal Durbar …. if yes do write about it too !

    Do write more about ur stay in Kashmir … waiting for ur next post:)
    Sharmila recently posted..Last part of the Norway cruise !

    1. Sharmila ji! How are you?

      Yep, Kashmir is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been to. I am so excited to share my stories and photographs but family and work are getting priority at the moment. Will post as soon as I get some time.

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